Skip to main content
Today's Gardens Project Planner

Topsoil calculator

https://todaysgardens.org/topsoil-calculator/ Planning estimate — generated in your browser and not stored.

How much topsoil you need is the area you are covering multiplied by the depth you intend to lay, plus whatever overage you decide to allow. This tool does that arithmetic and shows it: it does not assume a density, a bag size or a bulk bag size for you.

What you are doing

Both modes do the same arithmetic. The mode changes the wording of the notes, not the numbers.

Measurements

Add as many sections as the area takes. Set a section to subtract for anything that is not being covered.

Assumptions

These are your figures. They change the answer, so none of them is filled in for you except the overage, which starts at zero and adds nothing.

Required. Enter the depth you intend to lay.

An allowance for spreading losses and settling. No source gives a figure for this, so it is entirely your call.

Read this off the bag you intend to buy. Bag volumes differ between suppliers.

Bulk bags are sold by volume and that volume varies. Enter the figure your supplier quotes.

Optional: work out weight

Only your supplier can tell you this for the material you are actually ordering. Weight depends on moisture, grading and compaction: a wet soil can weigh substantially more than the same volume dry. Leave this empty and no weight is shown at all.

Calculations run in your browser. Enable JavaScript to use this calculator.

Your estimate

Worked example — not your result

A 10 m × 5 m lawn at 100 mm depth, with 5% overage, 60 L bags, 0.6 m³ bulk bags and a supplier density of 1200 kg/m³.

5.00 cubic metres (m³)

Litres
5,000 L
Measured area
50.00 m²
Gross volume after 5 % overage
5.25 m³
Bags at 60 L
88
Bulk bags at 0.6 m³
9
Weight at 1200 kg/m³
6.30 t
Assumptions in this example
Depth 100 mm
Overage 5 %
Bag size 60 L
Bulk bag size 0.6 m³
Density 1200 kg/m³

This is an example, not your result. It matches golden vector V1–V5 in the calculation methodology. Enter your own measurements and select Calculate.

How much topsoil do I need?

Multiply the area you are covering by the depth you intend to lay, then add whatever overage you want to carry. A 10 m × 5 m lawn at 100 mm is 5 m³, which is 5,000 litres. At the same area and 50 mm it is 2.5 m³. Depth is doing most of the work in that sum, which is why it is worth deciding deliberately rather than accepting a default.

The awkward part is not the arithmetic, it is the units the material is sold in. Bagged topsoil is sold in litres, bulk bags in cubic metres, and loose loads by weight. This tool will convert to all three, but only from sizes and a density you enter, because those figures differ between suppliers and the wrong one produces a confidently wrong order.

How much topsoil for turf?

This is the question the topping-up mode exists for, and it deserves an honest answer: the guidance this site cites does not give a topsoil depth for turfing. What it gives is a cultivation depth — dig or rotavate the existing soil to 20–25 cm so there is no compaction, and work in well-rotted organic matter. Whether you then need to import topsoil, and how deep, depends on how much usable soil you already have and how far the level is short.

In practice: if you are correcting a level, measure how deep the shortfall actually is and use that. If you are improving a thin soil, the depth is a judgement about what the grass needs to root into. Either way it is a decision about your ground, and the tool will not pretend to make it for you. The ground preparation planner sets out the whole sequence in order.

Topsoil depth for turf, and other depths people ask about

Depths are a decision, not a constant, and the honest position is that this site publishes no depth of its own. What it can do is make the consequence of your decision visible immediately: change the depth and the volume, the bag count and the tonnage all move together in the same render, with the depth you chose echoed beside them.

Ordering against this figure

Two things reliably catch people out. The first is delivery access: a bulk bag needs a hard, level surface within reach of a tail lift, and a loose load needs somewhere to tip. The second is minimum loads — below a certain volume many suppliers price a part load as a full one, which can make a slightly larger order cheaper per cubic metre.

How this figure is worked out

Every step is arithmetic you can repeat by hand. Full precision is kept through the calculation and rounded once for display.

Formulae used on this page
Step Formula
Depth to metres depth m = mm ÷ 1000, or cm ÷ 100, or m × 1
Cubic metres to litres 1 m³ = 1000 L
Net volume net volume m³ = net area m² × depth m
Gross volume after overage gross volume = net volume × (1 + overage % ÷ 100)
Bag count bags = ceiling(gross litres ÷ bag litres)
Bulk bag count bulk bags = ceiling(gross m³ ÷ bulk bag m³)
Mass from a density you entered kg = gross m³ × density kg/m³, and tonnes = kg ÷ 1000

The calculation methodology sets out every formula, bound and rounding rule this site uses.

Sources

SourceRHSHow to Lay Turf

https://www.rhs.org.uk/lawns/lawns-from-turf

checked 6 August 2026. Source key rhs-lay-turf.

  • Complete the site preparation well before buying or having the turf delivered.
  • Get rid of perennial weeds such as couch grass and bindweed first, forking out the roots.
  • Dig or rotovate the soil to a depth of 20–25cm so there is no compaction.
  • Incorporate plenty of well-rotted manure or other organic matter, especially on sandy soil — and only well-rotted material, because undecomposed matter shrinks and makes the surface sink unevenly.
  • Measure the area and check the dimensions of the turf pieces carefully before buying.
  • Lay turf within 24 hours of delivery if possible; if laying is delayed more than a few days, unroll it flat and water it if dry.
  • Stand on boards to avoid making footprints, stagger the joints like bricks in a wall, and push the pieces together tightly.
  • Turf is best laid in mid-autumn and can be laid from mid-autumn to early spring whenever the soil is not too wet or frosty; laying from mid-spring to early autumn is best avoided.